WASH/RINSE
(AGITATION) CYCLE
After the water valve closes, an electric motor starts which drives the transmission, sometimes through a belt, and in some cases through a clutch arrangement, too. The transmission converts the rotary motion of the motor to the back-and-forth motion of the agitator. A driveshaft extends from the top of the transmission to the agitator, where it is connected to the agitator, usually by a spline. (See Figure G-1.)
Agitation will continue for a certain amount of time, which is controlled by the timer. During agitation, some washers use their pump to circulate water, sucking it from the bottom of the tub and pumping it to the top of the tub. The pump is driven by the same electric motor.
Also during the agitation cycle, bleach or softener may be automatically added. This is usually done by a solenoid valve that allows some of the recirculated water to flush out the bleach or softener dispenser. In some models there is no water circulation involved; the solenoid simply opens a valve or door that lets the dispenser contents drop into the wash water. The timer tells this solenoid valve when to open.
My washing machine will get stuck right before the rinse cycle. The washing machine will be full of water. The way to 'fix it' is to twist the knob right after the 'rinse' line, find the sweet spot, and pull the knob out. It can take 10+ tries to find this sweet spot and seems to have no rhyme or reason.
I've read online that this might be a drainage problem, but I'm not sure that is the case here. I'm basing that off of the fact that allowing time to pass doesn't increase the likelihood of hitting the sweet spot.
Anything I can check? As the pictures show this is a Whirlpool Ultimate Care II
Tester101
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gtaylor85gtaylor85
12 Answers
Sounds like the timer-switch is dirty or worn, based on the fact there's a sweet spot that works. If the timer is stuck, i.e. it never reaches the end of the cycle on it's own, the gear teeth are probably worn in that spot.
If the timer works, it just 'misses' the rinse, you may be able to access the contacts and clean them. If the gears are worn or broken, you'll probably have to replace the whole assembly.
Since you can get it to work in the sweet spot, that rules out the usual suspects like control valves, relays, pumps.
bcworkzbcworkz
Pressure Switch Failing Symptoms Top Loading Washing Machines At Home
Try to raise the exit hose on the backside so it levels to the top plate of the machine. If the hose is flat on the floor or in a low height the machine can have problems draining the water.
Pressure Switch Failing Symptoms Top Loading Washing Machines Reviews
I don't mean the end of the hose here, but the 'middle' of it (see arrow on my amazing figure). Bad company 2 fov calculator. If the hose (in red) comes out at a lower point then make sure the bend is at a high point:
epistemexepistemex
It could simply be blocked. Put down loads of old towels and clear out the filter. It won't go on to rinse if it thinks that there's still water from the soap cycle. Other causes are broken pressure sensor, failing water inlet valve, dodgy door lock.
Brett GrubbBrett Grubb
It's more than likely a clogged hose connecting to the water pump.From my experience,i disconnected and unclogged a washer and found that so much cardboard,coins and sediment had accumulated,clogging the water hose and pump.Sure enough the washer started to work as if nothing had happened,lol.
DamieeeDamieee
My daughter in law had the same problem and it was that her dry well was full of lint from years of use. We installed a sump to the town sewer line instead.
sborshersborsher
It also could be as simple as the door safety switch.
I just had this problem with my Frigidaire washer. It's like from 1991 or 1992, I think! I really appreciate the answer above because I did not know how to drain the hose or get all the water out of the washer, but someone asked how to check this switch, so I'm adding to the answer what I did:
I was pressing it hard at first, but I realized I didn't have to push so hard. If you let up the pressure, though, it will stop. It will start again as soon as you reapply pressure. This isn't the most convenient way to wash clothes, but it will do until I get it fixed or get another washer. It will buy you some time if you don't mind paying extra attention to the washer on laundry day.
Daniel Griscom
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user28115user28115
We're looking for long answers that provide some explanation and context. Don't just give a one-line answer; explain why your answer is right, ideally with citations. Answers that don't include explanations may be removed.
This just happened to us today. Our top lid was a little bit warped, so the lid strike wasn't 'latching', more like striking, the button at the top of the washer to signal that it was closed.
I figured it out after I replaced the drainage hose and realized that it didn't fix the problem. As I was getting frustrated, I used the screw driver that I had prepared for the hose replacement to push down on the little trap door/latch and sure enough, the washer kicked into the spin cycle. It makes sense now because every other step of the cycle can function with the top lid open, except for the spin cycle. Therefore, it's most likely that the lid isn't closing right. That was my case and now it makes perfect sense.
On a side note, the hose is supposed to be replaced every 5 years and this thing is at least 10 years old, so I'm justifying the pain I went through to replace the hose. Our washer is jammed next to our dryer in a tiny room and the water basin is broken, so getting to the back of the washer was a pain. If it was out in the open, it would have been an easy replacement. The hose was like $8 at Home Depot. Buy a clamp too if you need to replace the hose, fyi.
Doresoom
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RonyRony
Had the same problem in my 1998 Whirlpool. It was a broken plastic spin switch. A new one costs $50, I was told. It sits below the hole in the lower right corner of the top of the washer. That plastic finger in the lid fits in the hole and turns on the switch when lid is down. Repairer offered to wire around the switch. Now lifting the hood, won't stop spinning, but pushing timer knob will.
Linda MiklowitzLinda Miklowitz
My issue was the door safety switch!!! I haven't changed it yet but I pressed it with a pen and it worked.
user43846user43846
Had the same problem today and as one user has mentioned above.
The problem was with the door not latching properly causing the cycle to stop at Rinse.
I screwed the switch sorta thing on the right end of the washer back into place and had the door close on it and yay, the washer finished the cycle.
[Moderator edit: It appears that he's referring to the lock-out switch that the door makes contact with]
Vidya RajeshVidya Rajesh
If you can hear some noises during the stuck rinse cycle, then it would likely be that the clutch had worn. You need to replace the clutch assembly.
Niall C.♦
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dinhdinh
Dancing man gif animation. It could need a new drain pump. Because it only stops on the rinse cycle and thats the only time water needs to be sucked up out of the machine.
ojait
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MatthewMatthew
We're looking for long answers that provide some explanation and context. Don't just give a one-line answer; explain why your answer is right, ideally with citations. Answers that don't include explanations may be removed.
protected by Community♦Apr 18 '16 at 13:20
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I opened and cleaned up the terminal in the door interlock, replaced and could hear the drain pump running. Put washer on cycle and washed but won't drain or spin. What next
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Comments:
My lg show F and just start washing when you switch it on.No water goes into machine.
Mine will agitate, but once it's time to drain and spin it just makes a buzzing sound and timer ticks away.
Hi there. I have and lg wt750 top loader. Doesn't finish cycle. It fills with water and does not drain. Comes up with error OE on display screen. Checked plug for blockages. None. Replaced drainage pump. There is no noise from pump. Still doesn't work. Any suggestions?
Hi. We have LGWT1101CW top loader. Like the person previously, the cycle won't spin and drain the water out. I contacted an LG rep and spent 1 hour to find out that we needed to replace the pump motor so my husband installed a brand new one. Cleared out all hoses too. We ran a test cycle, still does the same thing. It starts the spin cycle and appears to trip out after making a 'clunk' and then stops with the water still in the tub.
I am having same issue and pump works fine when tested with alternate power source. The power coming from control board was intermittant when it was supposed to be running the pump. I ordered a new control board today. Found a remanufactured one with 6mo warranty for 65 dollars
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